Visit to Jaffa (15 August, 2008)

If Jerusalem signifies the spirituality and sanctity of the Holy land, Tel Aviv represents all its materialism and hedonism. The first all-Jewish city is also Israel's second largest city (after Jerusalem) and has a population of 384,000. Tel Aviv is also Israel's business and cultural capital. Known as the White City (due to a large number of buildings built in the International style of architecture), Tel Aviv is famous for its clean white beaches, shopping malls, restaurants, museums and nightclubs. I do accept that after spending a good time in Israel, it took me almost 8 months to make my first trip to Tel Aviv which happens to be the first choice for most of the tourists. To be honest I made the trip not to feel modern Tel Aviv but to experience its much ancient and historic part called Jaffa. For time being let me leave the global Tel Aviv for another occasion and hope to see its much acclaimed modernity with a different mindset.

Located 2 km south of Tel Aviv on the shores of Mediterranean Sea, Jaffa or Yafo (Hebrew) is one of the oldest harbours in the world. Historians belive that Jaffa is the only port in the world which can boast uninterrupted inhabitation throughout it’s entire existence. Archaeological evidences indicate that Jaffa was inhabited some 7,500 years before Christ, a claim very few cities can boast today. The name Jaffa is derived from the Hebrew word Yofi which means beautiful. Indeed the beautiful stone buildings, narrow alleys, ancient churches, serene harbour, markets, artist galleries, restaurants and shops make Jaffa worth a visit without any second thought. For centuries Jaffa gave the first precious glimpse of the Holy Land to all those who arrived in the Promised Land.

Mentioned several times in Bible, Jaffa first appears as the city assigned to the Tribe of Dan (Josh 9:46). Traditions assert that it was built by Japheth, the son of Noah. Heard about biblical Prophet Jonah and the whale that swallowed him where he remained for three days and three nights? It was from this port that Jonah set sail (2 Jonah 1:1-3:1). When King Solomon made the famous Temple in Jerusalem, the unique cedar woods for its construction arrived from Lebanon through Jaffa (II Chron 2:16). Interestingly, when the temple was rebuilt after Babylonians destroyed it, the cedars were again brought to Jerusalem through Jaffa (Ezra 3:7). In New Testament, Peter's famous vision on the rooftop of the House of Simon the Tanner in Jaffa opened the gateway of Christianity to non-Jews (Acts 10:12-13). Peter's resurrection of the righteous Tabitha also occurred in Jaffa (Acts 9:36-42). Later, Maccabees, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamluks, Turks, British, Palestinians and Israelis all had contributed their share of history to the city. Richard the Lion Heart, Saladin, Napoleon and General Allenby were some who came for Jaffa and conquered it. Before Jaffa was integrated into modern Israel, it was the largest Palestinian city. Modern Jaffa is also renowned for its delicious oranges. Today, Jaffa is only a part of larger Tel Aviv-Yafo municipality. Ironically, when Tel Aviv was founded in 1909, it was just a sand dune and Jaffa was the base for its development.

I took the Metropolin Bus 60 (7.30 am) to Beer Sheva and Metropolin 370 (8.40 am) to Tel Aviv central bus station. The Tel Aviv Central Bus Station spread over 7 floors with more than 1,000 shops and restaurants is the largest central bus station in the world. Obviously if such a location happens to be in Israel the security measures has to be more rigid. As we approached the entrance to the station the bus was stopped and a lady security officer entered inside with a walkie-talkie. She started scanning the whole bus from front to back and made sure that bad guys are not present!! Moving further we were dropped near the main entrance to the station. The regular security measures followed including body scanning and opening the bags. Finally, green signal to enter the bus station was granted and now I was safe to travel further! I reached Tel Aviv around 10.00 am and after roaming for some time inside the shopping malls got the Dan Bus 46 from 4^th floor to Jaffa. Getting down near the Clock Tower of Jaffa around 11.00 am, I walked towards the old city. Sites visited in Jaffa include the Clock Tower, Great Mosque, Gan Hapisga and nearby Archaeological Excavations, St Peter's Monastery, House of Simon the Tanner, Jaffa Harbour and Wishing Bridge. For details see the photographs. After a failed attempt to visit the Russian Orthodox Church of Tabitha walked back to the central bus station. Went straight to the 6^th floor and took Metropolin Bus 370 (2.20 pm) to Beer Sheva and from there to Sede Boker (Metropoline 60, 4.00 pm). Back home by 4.45 pm.

Tel Aviv from Jaffa

Andromeda Rocks

The rocks you see in the photographs below are associated with Greek mythology. According to the Greek legends, people of Jaffa chained the virgin Andromeda, the daughter of Cepheus and Cassiopea (Ethiopean King and Queen), to sacrifice her to a sea monster called Cetus to appease Poseidon, god of the sea. But Perseus, riding the winged horse Pegasus, beheaded the monster, rescued Andromeda, and married her. So many characters in a short story! Interestingly, all of them remain in memory through the names of stellar constellations we have.

The Jaffa Harbour

One of the most ancient ports in the world. There are claims extending even upto 5000 years for the harbour's history. As mentioned earlier, many of the Biblical events and historic battles fought for the port city makes this site very special. Today it is used only as a fishing port and a venue to buy fresh fish .

The Sea Barrier, Jaffa

The long stretch of concrete barrier to prevent sea waves reaching the port. I guess one can walk above them to the end that almost reaches the Andromeda rocks. But I couldn't trace the entrance to the barrier and didn't want to make it there at any cost. Blame the hot sun.

The Clock Tower, Jaffa

The three-storied clock tower with its 4 clocks was built in 1906 to mark the 25th anniversary of the reign of the Turkish Sultan Abd al-Hamid the II. Usually the starting point for all tours in Jaffa.

The Great Mosque and the Sea Mosque (3P).

The Great Mosque or Mahmudiye Mosque was built in 1810 by the Ottoman governor Mahmud Pasha alias Abu Nabut. The minaret of this mosque is a landmark seen from all over Jaffa. Outside the mosque is a water fountain (sabil) for pilgrims built at the same period (see 4P). The Sea Mosque/Jami al-Bahr/ al Bahr Mosque is Jaffa's oldest mosque. Built in 16th century, it is called the mosque of local fishermen.