Thursday, October 9, 2008

VISITING JERUSALEM continued (23rd September, 2008)

Its my 5th extensive trip to Jerusalem, yet I feel there is much left to be explored!!! At this visit, my main aim was to discover some of the churches in Mount Olives which I still didn't manage to do so, especially the Russian orthodox churches that are open to tourists only on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Following the same routine schedule, I took Metropolin 60 from Sede Boker, early morning 5.30 am to Beer Sheva and at 6.30 am-Egged 446 to Jerusalem. At 8.30 am I was at Jerusalem and got the Egged 1 to Old City. The bus went through the ultra orthodox settlement Mea Shearim (had some snaps taken), and dropped me at the Dung Gate around 9.00 am. From the Dung Gate, I crossed the road and climbed down the steep steps to the Kidron Valley, where had a glimpse of the ancient tombs ascribed to Absalom, Zechariah and the grotto of St. James.

Walking further and climbing the steep road to Mount Olives, I reached the site for the Tombs of Biblical Prophets (Haggai, Zechariah and Malachi). The caretaker of the tombs was a Russian Orthodox priest who was very entusiastic and helpful. I had a nice discuusion about the site and the conflicts prevailing among different christian communities in Jerusalem. The next stop was at the Pater Noster Church, where traditions assume that Jesus taught the famous prayer "Our Father". Had to pay 7 NIS to enter the church (later realised was a voluntary contribution) and the guards appeared to be more demanding and stubborn with tourists who were not with a group.

Near the Pater Noster church is the Russian Orthodox Church of Ascension from where Jesus ascended to heaven. Interestingly, in Mount Olives there are four locations for Jesus' ascension to heaven. The Chapel of Ascension (which is now part of a Mosque), Russian Orthodox Church of Ascension, Lutheran Church of Ascension (Protestant) and Viri Galilee (Greek Orthodox). I had already been to the Mosque of Ascension earlier and here was an occasion to see the other three, all located in Mount of Olives. Inside the Russian Complex, there are Church of Ascension, Church of St. John the Baptist (where his beheaded head was assumed to be found) and a Convent. The main attractions here are the caged spot near the Ascension Church, where Virgin Mary stood during Christ's ascension to heaven, the ancient mosaic inside the St. John Baptist Church (from where his head was discovered) and the 64 metre tall tower with its unique huge bells. As the Russian Orthodox churches in Jerusalem close by noon, I had to rush down to the Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene (located at the base of Mt Olives), whose golden domes are one of the most beautiful structures in Jerusalem. Though the church is relatively new and has nothing to do with biblical events, the view from the church to Jerusalem and its beautiful interior are worth to watch.

One of the less frequented sites in Mount Olive is Beth Phage, the place from where Jesus climbed on a donkey and triumphantly entered Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. Beth Phage is now inside an Arab village called Et Tur and some 2 km from Mount Olives. Back to Mount Olive from Church of Mary Magdalene I had to climb the steep slopes again. On the way you can see the Jewish Cemetery of Mt Olives, one of the biggest and holiest cemeteries of Jews. While walking to Beth Phage, I realised how sharply different are the life styles of Arabs and Jews. I was the only outsider walking through those congested and narrow streets. The kids keep on swarming around me and were curious to know from where I am and if I need some help. Although, I could manage to see the church and monastery dedicated to the events that happened in Beth Phage, to be honest I was a bit scared to walk there. Being the focal point of everyone and listening to people making comments in Arabic, I felt like rushing back as early as possible.

Still left with the Lutheran Church of Ascension in the agenda, I walked towards the Victoria Augusta hospital (the church is part of this hospital complex), whose unique buildings are distinct in Jerusalem's Eastern skyline. On the way I saw the Greek Orthodox Church called Viri Gallillee and its isolated bell tower. The church complex was surrounded by large olive gardens with peacocks, turkeys and horses roaming freely. Unfortunately I mistook it for the Church of Ascension and realized only later. Closing the chapter of Mount Olives behind, I walked to the Old City of Jerusalem and entered through St. Stephen's Gate (Lion's Gate). I saw the chapels built on the birthplace of Virgin Mary and where her parents Anna and Joachim lived at their old age. Next stop was at the Ecce Homo Convent where traditions assume Jesus' trial under Pilate happened. Although I had been to the convent earlier, I missed the Lithostrotos (stone pavement) where Christ was judged. This time I managed to be at Lithostrotos and to the remains of the Arch of Ecce Homo inside the basilica where according to traditions, Pilate proclaimed the word "Behold the Man". Walking further through Via Dolrosa to the Damascus Gate, I visited the ancient Roman Plaza and nearby amazing cave complex called Solomon's Quarries or Zedekiah's Caves. If interested you can go through the details provided along with the photographs uploaded.

Believe me I was really exhausted and damn tired... thanks to the nice hot mint tea and Schwarma from Old City, the journey continued. Church of Holy Sepulcher... every time you go there you experience some thing new. This time it was a relics room!! Unfortunately, I still could not figure out what actually was there inside...It was almost 5 pm and time for most tourist areas in Jerusalem to say Sagur (closed). I took a chance to see the House of Caiaphas near Mount Zion at that weird time, but failed to locate it. Went back to Jaffa Gate, and walked to the nearest bus stop near Mamilla. Bus 20 took me to central bus station, from there Egged 470 to Beer Sheva and finally Metropolin 60 to Sede Boker......

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